Let’s be clear about this. Kate *may* have represented this as a trad area to me when there really isn’t any crack climbing. It’s a mixed-gear sport area where the original route setters put bolts in only in the hard parts and slabs. The rest is protected with trad in the intersecting horizontal cracks. A sport only climber will encounter 50 foot run-outs in spots. Hey Doug, if you climb trad, it unlocks the other 90% of climbing areas…
And on the tree-roof, the book talks about putting a #3 at the base of the roof. Heck no! That was full of gooey animal droppings. I’m not getting toxo-plasmosis just to stick in a cam. I went with three smaller pieces in the roof cracks (dynamically equalized) instead of the book-recommended gooey disease-camalot.
Matt
· 1 year ago
Mark - this area does have some gear only climbs. IMHO, I think that the Diagonal is an incredible climb - five stars if it was 400? longer. The bottom of the first pitch is sooooooo much fun! And, if you run it to the base of that overhang (past the two sets of anchors) sooooo wonderfully long! And I think that I’ll stick to a grade of 9 as the crux is short down low. The opening of the second pitch (the traverse you show in the pic) is a little creepy as there is not a lot of gear between a fixed pin and where you exit the roof, but the moves are all there.
For another gear only climb, check out the first pitch of No More War (Beetle Bailey) - it’s a great introduction to the flaring cracks of Lumpy. Short, but it will make you think. Finish up the second pitch for a great 10a. There is also a 9 on the far right hand side (after GI Joe Does Barbie or whatever that climb is called). And you all did Tree Roof - a thoroughly worthless rated R climb, once again, in my opinion. Do it once and never return.
Anyway, sounds like you all had fun. Good to hear that you are still getting out and climbing.
All Comments
And on the tree-roof, the book talks about putting a #3 at the base of the roof. Heck no! That was full of gooey animal droppings. I’m not getting toxo-plasmosis just to stick in a cam. I went with three smaller pieces in the roof cracks (dynamically equalized) instead of the book-recommended gooey disease-camalot.
For another gear only climb, check out the first pitch of No More War (Beetle Bailey) - it’s a great introduction to the flaring cracks of Lumpy. Short, but it will make you think. Finish up the second pitch for a great 10a. There is also a 9 on the far right hand side (after GI Joe Does Barbie or whatever that climb is called). And you all did Tree Roof - a thoroughly worthless rated R climb, once again, in my opinion. Do it once and never return.
Anyway, sounds like you all had fun. Good to hear that you are still getting out and climbing.